Since the birth of the first real pair of jeans at the end of the 19th century, jeans today have taken on many different fashion interpretations. Although they were originally introduced to cope with the intense nature of labor, they have now transformed into an integral part of fashion.
Today we’ll pick up a little knowledge on jeans.
Origin of jeans
In 1873, the first real pair of jeans was born.
There is one person who deserves a lot of credit – he is Levi Strauss (Levi Strauss), the founder of the famous LEVI’S company, people even respect him as the father of jeans.
In 1848, James Marshall discovered gold in California in the western United States, and countless people with dreams of making a fortune began to pour into the desolate and depressed west like a tidal wave, triggering the famous “gold rush” in American history. 20-year-old Levi, not content with being a small worker, resolutely resigned and went west to catch up with the gold rush.
Levy was first bullied by the gold seekers who had arrived in the West first, and realized that there was no way for him to make a fortune on the road to gold.
He soon found that the real shortage of water in the West, but nothing seems to be able to think of it. So he came up with a brilliant idea – to sell water. The large demand made his water selling business booming, but soon, someone else joined the water selling team, and he once again encountered the “social beating”.
In 1853, Levy went abroad to San Francisco to start a wholesale dry goods business, selling ready-made clothing, bedding and linen, and business was booming. However, he purchased a large quantity of canvas for tents and wagon tents, but no one asked for it.
To deal with the backlog of canvas, Levy tried to cut the canvas into low-waisted, straight-legged, hip-tight pants, peddling to the gold miners. As canvas is more wearable than cotton, this kind of pants is very popular with the gold miners.
As a result, Levy opened a company specializing in canvas work pants, producing cheap, plain, hard-wearing and functional pants for gold miners, lumberjacks and other blue-collar workers. For practicality and aesthetics, he switched to indigo coarse twill and branded them under his own name, “Levi’s”.
The exact date of the birth of jeans is May 20, 1873. On this day, the Patent and Trademark Office issued a patent for overalls to two immigrants, Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis.
Since the pants made of canvas were monotonous and the fabric was thick and stiff, Levi began to search for a new fabric.
He found a fabric that was selling well in the European market – Nim indigo twill cotton beech.
This was invented by Frenchman Neyman, a blue and white twill coarse cotton fabric, both strong and soft characteristics.
Today, most jeans are still made with this fabric, and blue twill has become one of the representative elements of jeans.
Why are jeans blue?
The first jeans were actually brown because of the canvas they were made of. Considering that gold panners worked in the open in the field, Levy fermented and processed indigo plant leaves into dye to dye the jeans, and this indigo plant leaves could repel mosquitoes.
Later, blue twill was taken to be used as fabric, and over time, blue gradually became mainstream.
The role of studs
First of all, we need to know what a stud is.
It is this rivet in the crotch
At that time, gold miners in the labor, often to put heavy samples of ore into the trouser pocket, the heavy ore will often make the trouser pocket line broken and cracked.
A local tailor named Jacob Davis often for gold miners to repair trouser bags. He used brass rivets on the top two corners of the trouser bag, so that the bag can be fixed.
Later Levy and Davis used their production of button jeans on the “studs” registered patent, marking the birth of the first pair of jeans.
And it turns out that after the use of the stud design, the fastness of Levi”s jeans was greatly improved, and even with two horses, the pants were not pulled apart, and Levi”s famous two-horse trademark was thus born.
Levi’s even used the trademark as a leather tag on the jeans
In 1890, Levis Strauss coded jeans for the first time, and the world-famous 501 was the first Levi’s jeans model.
And the number 501 actually comes from the Levi’s factory number, factory number 501.
Pocket watch pocket / coin pocket
Pocket watch pocket is this small pocket
Since there are already large pockets, why do you need such an impractical small little pocket?
This pocket is because gold miners often take a pocket watch to work, so Levi designed this mini-pouch, both to prevent pocket watches from scratching, and because it is narrow, pocket watches are not easy to fall inside.
Levi’s official website on a 2014 blog post writes that in the early days, Strauss jeans (designed for cowboys) designed a small pocket to protect the pocket watch, so called the table pocket.
The company admits that while the little pocket has been around almost as long as the jeans, its name has evolved over the past 140 years or so to reflect its use, with condom pockets, coin pockets and ticket pockets, to name a few, that otherwise would not have needed the little pocket. (Steve Jobs even used it to hold his iPod Nano)
In 1936, in order to distinguish Levi’s from other companies’ imitations, Levi’s added a red flag crest to the back pocket of its jeans as an authentic Levi’s logo. The side flags on the back pockets have two Levi’s, one positive and one negative, with the e in lower case (some of the earlier ones are in upper case).
And many friends buy Levi’s jeans, will encounter the red flag label only a capital R, encounter first do not suspect that the hand is fake, R label is actually in the foundry to play a counting role, a thousand levis jeans, using a R label pants count.
Now many dealers to R label to do gimmick to raise the selling price, to promote its uniqueness, in fact, R label is only a relatively rare number of some, the rest of the aspects and ordinary pants without any difference.
Arcuate, the curved stitching on the back pocket of jeans, was first designed by Levi’s in 1873 to decorate the back waist of jeans. After that, all the major denim brands started to design their own unique Arcuate.
Nowadays, many jeans brands have their own unique pocket flower, for example: Lee1944 added the famous lazy S pocket flower on jeans, Wrangle designed the “WW” pocket flower in 1984, and Evisu’s seagull pocket flower.
The meaning of Levi’s
Little known, Levi’s is the name of the “Levi” tribe of the twelve tribes of the Jews, and is a reward from God to the descendants of the tribe of Levi who served in the Temple. It is a fulfillment of the Bible that “the descendants of the righteous will be blessed”.
Button Doorstop & Zipper Flap
In 1853, Levi’s invented jeans with a button placket, and Levi’s most classic 501 series has always used button plackets.
The zipper closure was invented in 1926, and the first pair of jeans with a zipper closure was the Lee 101Z.
Nowadays, the number of jeans with button closure is gradually decreasing for the reason that the zipper closure is more convenient.
Denim fabric thickness
Denim is clothing that can be worn all year round, so how to distinguish between different types of denim: first, according to the thickness of denim, divided into 4.5 amp, 6 amp, 8 amp, 10 amp, 11 amp, 12 amp, 13.5 amp, 14.5 amp, etc.
Cloth weight with the yarn count and fabric warp and weft density, the thicker the yarn, the greater the density of cloth, the greater the weight. Generally can be divided into light, medium and heavy three categories. Light cloth weight of 200 to 340 grams / square meter (6 to 10 ounces / square yard), medium 340 to 450 grams / square meter (10 to 13 ounces / square yard), heavy 450 grams or more (13 ounces / square yard or more).
The concept of ounces, yards and inches
Ounce, generally referred to as OZ in the textile world, it is converted to 1 ounce = 28.5 grams
1 yard = 0.9144 m. 1 inch = 2.54 cm. The length of denim fabric is usually calculated in yards.
It is best not to choose raw cowboy fabric above 22 OZ unless you are a heavyweight player.
Bare ear, a red alignment on each side of the pant seam line, this type of pant has a shrinkage of 8% to 10% after washing , and is simply a way of locking the hem of the jeans.
There are many brands of jeans (LVC, Japan, LEE101, etc.) that reintroduce bare ears mainly to highlight their delicate workmanship and high quality. The fabric with ears is called Selvedge Denim.
Regular denim is woven on a modern fast loom with a raw edge and a width of 60 inches Barefoot denim is generally woven on a traditional reciprocating shuttle loom as the edge is retained. The width is only 30 inches, to retain the bare edge (bare edge), the machine is backward and inefficient.
Original color terracotta denim. Bare ear is the edge of the cloth produced by antique looms during the weaving process. It generally comes in a variety of colors, but is collectively referred to as bare (a.k.a. red) ear. This is generally difficult to do by industrial mass production machines.